One of the smaller joys of eating abroad is a poorly translated menu; a small joy because it tends to precede a meal that contains a disproportionate quantity of offal. This happens regardless of which of the wackier named dishes that you order. The crazier the name is, the more lungs that it has to offer.
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But the novelty of a list of foods given the literal translation treatment never wears thin. I still find myself laughing at the Cambodian menu at the Teo Hotel in Battambang, Cambodia (pictured) that offered the cryptic but peace-shattering "Dove on Fire (one)".
I discovered that this week that the Beijing Municipal Government's Foreign Affairs Office and the Beijing Tourism Bureau have conspired to take the fun out of ordering Chinese food just in time for the Beijing Olympics by publishing a standardized list of menu items (Word document, 2.6mb) that it has distributed to three-star and above hotels around Beijing. The list is not prescriptive but suggestive.
The 180-page list takes in Chinese and Western cuisines, cocktails, wines and spirits both local and foreign. American hot dogs, Lyonnaise potatoes and Grilled Norwegian Salmon Fillet all make the cut, as does some out-of-place haute cuisine - "Quick-Baked Scallop Mille Feuille (Roast Pepper Sauce and Basil Oil Infusion) (千层酥烤鲜贝)" and the occasional brand name -"Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz (莎瑞斯发泡葡萄酒)", which renders through Google Translate as "Shiraz Foam Wine".
The real damage is dealt to Chinese food.
Chinese menus are full of puns, cultural and regional in-jokes that you're not supposed to even loosely fathom until you've got a good grip upon whichever dialect that you speak. Even then, I get the feeling that they're not supposed to make a huge amount of sense, but nor do they need to when the same dishes have been served for hundreds of years. The only English equivalent of the more untranslatable Chinese foods that comes to mind is Spotted Dick: great for making a quick, pudding-related appendage joke, dead boring to explain the lengthy and nonsensical etymology.
The list presupposes (probably, correctly) that non-Chinese readers don't want to learn the similarities between dishes nor can they discern them. "Drooling" Chicken (口水鸡), made mouth-watering with the spicy and piquant Sichuan mala sauce becomes the more pedestrian "Chicken with Chili Sauce", other dishes with the same Mala sauce simply become "Spicy" as in the "Spicy Ox Tripe"(麻辣牛肚).
Parts of the list are just as misleading as an original culturally-specific menu item. Pork floss for example, the fluffy dried meat concoction that looks like someone attempted to make fairy floss with jerky alone, gets translated as "minced pork".
Some dialects make the cut (e.g. "wonton" from Cantonese), others don't and there is no consistency with adding regional styles. Su-Zhou, Kejia, and Wuxi regions all make it past the translators as having their own style, even though these boroughs would only be familiar to the most committed Chinese food aficionados. Most dishes end up being reduced from whatever their original name to the Western expectation of meat-centric stir fries.
But if you make it through until page 78, you'll be richly rewarded with "Assorted Meat and Vegetables Cooked in Embers (lured by its delicious taste even the Buddha jumped over the wall)."
I'm sure that it's full of lungs.
Worst translation you've ever seen? Post away. Need inspiration? Try the Flickr Bad Menus pool.
Comments (6)
Chile
Fav from a little seafood restaurant in Valparaiso: 'Parmesan pink razor clamps...' Never did investigate.
30 Jun 2008 21:45 AEST
From: Melbourne
Foam wine
Jamez - I'm all in favour of using the term "foam wine" instead of "sparkling"
30 Jun 2008 9:21 AEST
From: Sydney
Google has it right
Shiraz Foam Wine is about spot on. Red soft drink is also applicable.
26 Jun 2008 13:22 AEST
From: melbourne
anus soup
i once ate at a roadside dive in a village in the mountains of northern vietnam, near the border with China, that listed body parts on the menu, then you just chose the animal of your choice whose body parts you wanted - a bit like a list of Pasta sauces, and the choice of pasta.... in this case the body parts included all the usual offal plus Anus and Bowel.... mmmm tasty!
26 Jun 2008 9:52 AEST
From: Manly
Borridge
My favourite was 'borridge' for 'porridge' on a menu in Thailand. It became the catchphrase for the rest of our holiday whenever something went wrong. "We missed the boat back to the mainland. Borridge!"
25 Jun 2008 21:53 AEST
From: out and about
SWPL Agree
http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/06/19/white-problems-typos/
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About this Blog
A blog about what the world eats, when and where it eats it, and why it matters to us all. Only much less ambitious than that sounds and with more excruciating puns.
Phil Lees grew up in rural Victoria, the first generation in his family to not have lived on the farm and thereby not slaughter their own meat.
In 2005 he moved to Cambodia and started the nation’s first food blog, Phnomenon.com, named after the best pun that he has ever made. It turns out that Cambodian food is delicious and unlike the warnings in most guidebooks, is not likely to kill you with any immediacy. Gridskipper called him a “national treasure”. Lonely Planet’s Greater Mekong guide called him “the unofficial pimp of Cambodian cuisine”. The New York Times laughed at a funny hotdog he saw.
Phil makes a mean sausage, a hoppy pale ale, a modest laksa. He owns three barbecues and is in the market for a fourth. He’s never eaten at a Michelin-starred restaurant. There is more important food in the world to be eaten.
Fri 21 Nov 2008 | 
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14 Jul 2008 20:17 AEST
James Payne
From: Sydney